Click on the graphics at the top-left of the screen to view the map (lines in blue are routes undertaken since 2002, lines in green are those undertaken prior to 2002).

My only visit was in December 2002.

I am not sure why, but I was actually rather disappointed with Cameroon. I was expecting much more from a cultural / artistic perspective, and saw nothing that made the country memorable - perhaps I was just unlucky not to pass any suitable markets. I did notice that all the colourful fabrics used are imported.

However, apart from that omission, the country was very friendly and easy to travel through. I did not experience any hassles, but the country was very expensive - although if one was self-sufficient and camped, most of the costs could be avoided.

All cities were completely chaotic in terms of trying to drive through them. Their public transport system (in common with Gabon) was based on shared taxis, which are cars that drive along and stop to pick up any potential passenger, and drop people off wherever they want. It also makes for a lot of noise since all taxis use their horn to attract passengers.

The country has a very varied landscape, with lowland (Congo) rainforest in the south-east (which I did not visit as it is probably very similar to Gabon), with a variety of mountainous habitats in the north-west, a small patch of lowland (west African) forest on the Nigerian border), but as one goes north one passes through the temperate Adamauan plateau, followed by an increasing arid landscape until one reaches the Sahel in the extreme north.

Getting my Cameroon visa was the hardest of all for this trip. First they required that a letter of invitation be issued by a resident of Cameroon. Luckily Guillaume Dzihouk of the Cameroon Biodiversity Conservation Society was able to assist. They also wanted proof of funds (a copy of my purchase document for US dollars was OK, proof of insurance of the vehicle (which was almost impossible, since no South African insurer covers a vehicle in Cameroon) and then $ 40 payment. In all it took about a week to obtain.

Again, contrary to many expectations, I did not come across any corruption in my travels through Cameroon. On entry from Gabon, my passport was checked and stamped, and I was waved on - there were no customs.

Where there were tolls on the road, a receipt was always issued.

Where there were police and army roadblocks, they invariably waved me through - although often they wanted to know where I had come from - just curiosity. I think that most officials only pick on their own citizens. Hence when tourists hire vehicles with a local driver, the driver is targetted for the normal bribe at a roadblock, but when there is only a white person driving, they don't bother.

DISCLAIMER: I have to reiterate that this is based entirely on my own experience, which may not be typical. I am 6 feet 8 inches tall (that is just over 2 metres tall), and not of slender build! Hence, it is quite possible people do not threaten me as much as other tourists. It also means that my experiences may not be applicable to others visiting this country.

I experienced no problems at all. The one night I stayed in Yaounde at a hotel, I felt perfectly secure sitting out on the pavement veranda where I had a couple of drinks and a meal.  No-one hassled me there. When I went to change money in one of the shops in Yaounde, my guide suggested that I should be careful, but no-one looked threatening, and I suspect it was my size that intimidated people - because when it is obvious that you are changing dollars, it is also obvious one is carrying money.

The greatest threat I felt was driving through towns - the taxis were a genuine threat to life!

This country drives on the right (as do all its neighbouring countries).

As mentioned above, city traffic was completely chaotic. The way the taxis stop to pick up and drop off people wherever they want means that the maximum speed through towns - and especially Yaounde and Douala - was around 15 km/h. That was the maximum, in many places it the average speed was less than 5 km/h. This is mainly due to the way the taxis swerve in and out of the road at will. More troubling, vehicles stop 2 or 3 abreast, and totally block even the most major roads. Those used to South African taxis would revise their opinion of them as they are far more responsible.

Some Cameroon roads are goof, but in general they - like most African countries - do not maintain them, even though tolls are charged on all tarred roads - at CFA 500 per toll. I must have paid about 25 tolls on my route, which adds up to about US $25. The dirt roads were of variable quality, although it is hard to generalize as it was the end of the rainy season, so roads are often in poor repair at this time of year.

The currency id the Central African Franc (CFA), and Cameroon uses the "southern" notes - the notes used in Nigeria and western Africa are different to those used in Cameroon, and Chad and countries south to Congo. Although the exchange rate of the CFA is the same between the two areas, for some reason the notes are not accepted in the other region. The exchange rate was very much open to negotiation. Banks in Cameroon only offered around CFA600 to the US$, while I could have got CFA 650 to the $ internationally - except it is impossible to get CFA notes in South Africa! The going rate from traders was around CFA 680 to the US$.

It is very easy to spend money in Cameroon. A 650 ml beer from a store will cost around CFA 700, and an omelet from the Hot Spot in the Botanic Gardens at Limbe cost CFA 2500. One nights accommodation and a meal at the Tanga Hotel in Yaounde cost CFA 29 000 - but this was one of the few hotels (and probably the cheapest) that would accept a credit card. Cameroon is not a country where credit cards can be used outside of a few major hotels in Yaounde (and perhaps Douala). A meal at the Benoue National Park cost CFA 6 000, while a beer there cost CFA 900.

National Park charges were - in comparison - quite reasonable. The first park I entered was Korup, where the entry fee for two days (an afternoon and a morning) was CFA 10 000. I was forced to use a guide at a cost of CFA 8 000 - but this was a total waste of money (see my trip report). The second park was Benoue, where it cost CFA 2 000 for the vehicle and CFA 5 000 per person - which covered my arrival at the camp (over an hour after passing the gate) at around 13h00, and I left early in the morning. A guide for a single afternoon drive was provided free of charge (excluding the tip) - no complaints there. Mt Kupe involved payment of CFA 5 000 to the local NGO who organised the conservation in the area (I have misplaced the name), and a further CFA 2 000 for a guide for the day.

A room at Ngaoundaba Ranch cost CFA 9 000, but camping was free. Dinner was CFA 9 000, while breakfast was CFA 3 000. Castel beer cost CFA 700 each, while Beaufort beer was CFA 1400 per bottle. At the Waza Campement, camping was also free, while a meal cost CFA 6 000.

Vehicle repairs were outrageous.  Welding up one of the tie rod brackets which took under an hour cost CFA 20 000, while a set of Landrover front brake pads cost CFA 151 343 !

I visited the "traditional" birding areas. I failed to visit Mt Cameroon or the Bakossi Mountains, and did not explore much of the Bamenda highlands area.

Guillaume Dzihouk can easily arrange an early morning expedition from Yaounde that should provide an easy sighting of Rockfowl - if you leave early enough. This would certainly be the easiest sighting of Grey-necked Rockfowl (Picathartes oreas) that I am aware of.

While driving from Yaounde to the Limbe / Mt Cameroon area you will cross the Sanaga River. After crossing the second bridge, about 500 metres beyond is a dirt road that follows the river to the west. After about 6 kilometres it is possible to view the river from various small tracks for the next 5 kilometres, and (depending on the river level) sand islands are visible. I found Grey Pratincole (Glareola cinerea) while others have found Egyptian Plover (Pluvianus aegyptius) there. I also found Preuss's Cliff Swallow (Hirundo preussi) on the wires on the inland side of the road. Apart form these specials, there was not much to be seen. Around Douala are some tidal pools easily seen from the road, where I found Reef Heron (Egretta gularis gularis)

At Limbe the best area (as far as I know) is the Botanical Gardens. I stayed at the Botanical Gardens Guest House there, where, although there is no proper campsite, one can camp in the "car park". I think I actually paid the same amount (CFA 3 000) as for using a room, but ay my height, camping is invariably more comfortable.  Access to toilets and shower were provided. The Hot Spot (located at the west end of the gardens is a good (and relatively cheap) place to have brunch and or dinner). I found Royal Tern (Sterna maxima) offshore form the Hot Spot, and the remainder of the birds in the Botanical Gardens, including the surprise of a Brown Sunbird (Anthreptes gabonicus) which was seen flying (and stopping briefly) along the shoreline. A pleasant place to relax.

The Korup National Park should be one of the primary birding destinations to any birder form southern Africa - several species reach their southern ranges in this reserve. If camping from a vehicle, it is easy to camp next to the bridge, but beware of the river flies - quite painless while they are biting, but very itchy afterwards (the normal South African insect repellants failed me). The tracks are quite easy to follow, especially if you can obtain a copy of the park map. I was not able to walk long distances at this point, but nevertheless was able to find many species.  However, the specials of the area could be found if one was to camp within the park, and had a good guide (i.e. not Ferdinand). This is an area many people target the Grey-necked Rockfowl, but I still believe that the Yaounde area is easier.

Mt Kupe is one site no keen birder would consider missing. If possible, several days should be spent here, but if you have (like me) a weak knee, then you will have to rely on a single trip up the mountain - and your chances of seeing everything are very slim. The birding gets really exciting above the 1300 metre mark. To ensure where you are, I strongly recommend taking a GPS unit, so you can maximize your time at the higher elevations (OK, if you are going to the top, this isn't so relevant, but if you want to minimize your walking, the GPS is essential). I was unable to contact Chris Wilde - Murphy's laws meant that he was in Yaounde all the time I was at Mt Kupe. It is possible to camp free of charge at the office of the NGO, with a toilet available behind the office.

Guillaume recommended that I visit the Mt Oku area, but given my relative immobility, I decided to ignore him, and visit the Bafut-Nguemba Forest Reserve south of Bamenda.  This reserve was - in my opinion - a disappointment from the conservation perspective, there seemed to be no "forest" at all, yet I found all the endemic species very easily. It was provided a very pleasant campsite next to Lake Awing, although there were no facilities there.

Ngaoundaba Ranch is - in my opinion - one of the most pleasant birding areas in Cameroon. I suppose that is largely because I prefer birding in open country, rather than forests. The Ranch is just in the process of changing ownership, and one hopes that it remains as accessible to birders as before, and camping in the Lodge car-park is permissible - one could probably camp near the forest area, but I didn't enquire into this. The forest patches are sufficiently small that one can observe all the birds from the edge. The Ranch can be reached in a days drive from Yaounde, and is only a few hours drive from Benoue National Park.

Benoue National Park had just been badly burnt when I arrived, and there was no sight of any greenery - even most of the trees had been scorched. However, this did not affect the riverine forest which was very productive - especially to the south of the accommodation. I didn't investigate the accommodation or its cost, but it was probably quite expensive (from a South African perspective anyway). I am sure that the park is worth more than the afternoon I spent there, although I found most of the species I was looking for.

I didn't actually visit the Waza National Park, since it looked desperately dry. Anyway, the prime birding area appeared to be on the road to the south of Waza town - although I found that the road through Chad was - in many respects - just as productive. The area most people seem to concentrate on is the area about 8 kilometres south of the town where there are a sting of small muddy pools, around which small trees grow.

Not yet available.

Click here.

Guillaume Dzihouk - Programme Development Officer at the Cameroon Biodiversity Conservation Society (formerly the Cameroon Ornithological Club) He will co-ordinate a visit, and put you in contact with the local experts - if you give him time. Due to the nature of my visit, I had no idea when I would arrive, so he was unable to research my needs and set up the contacts - it takes several days to achieve this.

Francine Chalons - new owner of the Ngaoundaba Ranch.


The most comprehensive birding information and links is available from the fatbirder website
while the African Bird Club website can provide additional information

UK Travel Advice and click on "countries & regions" then "country profiles" then "use shortcut menu"
US Travel Advice

Last updated: April 2003