Zambia / Malawi

7 October to 11 November 1991

Journal

Tuesday 8^th to Wednesday 9^th October 1991

For reasons relating to work, I was unable to leave on the Saturday as I normally did, but instead only left on a Tuesday.

Anyway, I left very early in the morning (about 04h00), and drove straight up to Harare, where I spent two nights staying with friends there.

Thursday 10^th October 1991

Leaving Harare in mid-morning, I drove north-west to cross the border into Zambia at Chirundu, and then continued to the Eureka campsite just outside Lusaka.

Friday 11^th to Wednesday 16^th October 1991

On the Friday morning I drove north-east up to Kasanka NP, where I camped at the main camp. I spent much time with David Lloyd and his assistant, and managed to visit most of the reserve over the 6 days I was there. On Monday I went with the assistant up to his camp on Shoebill Island at the southern end of the swamps. It was quite an interesting drive, but not too difficult since the rains hadn't started. We were able to drive right out to the camp, and spent much of the day there before returning. However, I was not able to find the elusive Shoebill.

Thursday 17^th October 1991

Early in the morning I left to drive north towards Lake Mweru. The road was in very poor condition, and it took me most of the day to reach the lakeshore, and I had to camp next to the police station in one of the local villages - apparently the area wasn't too safe with lots of refugees coming over the border from Zaire.

Friday 18^th to Saturday 19^th October 1991

Leaving the camp early, I then drove inland towards Lake Tanzania - passing between Lake Mweru and what maps at the time called Mweru Marsh - but - since it had filled with water - was really Lake Mweru-Wantipa. I had the interesting experience of being stopped at a road-block and having to go through all the immigration procedures again. I tried to point out I had not been out of Zambia, but the official was quite adamant. Anyway, it didn't do any harm, and seemed to please him.

I stayed for two nights at Ndole Lodge - staying in the Lodge itself this time, not camping. On the Saturday I drove out to Kasaba Bay and back.

Sunday 20^th October 1991

Leaving Ndole in the late morning, I drove slowly towards Kasama, and decided to camp at the Chisimba Falls on the way.

Monday 21^st to Sunday 27^th October 1991

I left the falls very early, and drove east through Kasama to Isoka, and then continued further east towards Malawi. I crossed the Luangwa by a fairly basic ferry (it was soon to fail, and was not repaired, so this route was no longer viable). The road into Malawi was not well used, and in fact the border crossing was one of my most memorable experiences, and so typifies the relaxed ways of Africa - but sadly those days seem to be a thing of the past.

At the border post on the Zambian side was a shed, with a locked gate across the road. On entering the shed, no-one was around, but a couple of clear (hand-written) notes were in place. I was to fill in the first register with my name & passport details, then stamp the passport. Then to I had to complete the next register with the vehicle details for customs. Finally, the key to the gate was there. All so simple and easy!

Once through there was a more formal system on the Malawian side, and it had both an immigration officer and a customs officer. Once through there, it was a short distance to reach Nyika, where I stayed in one of the lodges for a week (it was surprising cold in the evenings, so it was preferable than camping - and almost as cheap).

Again I met up with a leopard while walking - in almost exactly the same place as on my previous visit.

Monday 28^th October 1991

I left Nyika in mid-morning and drove the short distance to Vwaza Marsh, where I slept in the main camp - which was a tented camp. I failed to find the White-winged Babbling Starling, which was the main reason I visited the reserve.

Tuesday 29^th to Wednesday 30^th October 1991

From Vwaza Marsh I drove east down to the lake shore at Chinteche. This has one of the most amazing areas to swim as the lake shore shelves extremely shallowly out, and the water is still only about 4 feet deep 50 metres from the shore.

I also spent time bird-watching in the areas around the hotel where I stayed, looking for the local special birds.

Thursday 31^st October 1991

Leaving quite early in the morning, I drove south along the lake shore, passing the Nkhotakota reserve. This was one of the few places I had heard of where a motorcyclist was killed by a lion when riding past.

In the afternoon I reached Senga Bay, and decided to stay at the Livingstone Hotel, which was quite cheap (at the time).

Friday 1^st to Monday 4^th November 1991

From Senga Bay I drove south to Zomba, where I spend 4 nights - trout fishing and bird-watching.

Tuesday 5^th November 1991

Leaving Zomba in the late morning, I drove south again to revisit Mt Thyolo. On arrival I found that the summit had been cleared for a radio mast, which was guarded by the army. However, they were prepared to let me camp inside the enclosure (where it was level). I spent the afternoon and then the following morning birding the remnant of the forest - it was definitely smaller than on my last visit.

Wednesday 6^th to Friday 8^th November 1991

After a morning spent bird-watching, I left to reach Kasungu NP in the late afternoon. I spent 3 nights there.

Saturday 9^th November 1991

I left Kasungu very early, and drove south to the Mchinji border with Zambia, and then drove straight west, passing through Lusaka in the late afternoon. This was possible because these stretches of the Zambian roads had been much improved since I last used them, and were now excellent pothole-free tar roads.

I was able to reach Makuti around sunset, and stayed at the Clouds End Motel there.

Sunday 10^th November 1991

I took this day more slowly, and just drove down to Masvingo, where I camped at the Ruins campsite next to the Great Zimbabwe Hotel.

Monday 11^th November 1991

Leaving in the early morning, I was back in Johannesburg in the afternoon.