North-West Zambia

22 November  - 7 December 1997

Journal

Saturday 22^nd November 1997

I left Johannesburg at 02h30 to try and get across the Beit Bridge border into Zimbabwe before it got too hot.

I managed to cross the border at 09h00 when it was already 42°C! I arrived in Harare at 17h00. I then drove east to Lake Chivero (previously Lake McIlwaine) to camp.

I have seen many previous messages on the South African Bird Net about how this camp site has degenerated. Well, as far as I was concerned, it was still in excellent shape. Camp sites are spread out over approx 10 hectares, on a reasonably level area in miombo woodland on the lake edge. The shower blocks and toilets were clean, with running water. The surprise was that this camp site was completely deserted! I was the only person there that night. If such a facility is going to remain under-utilized like this, then it would be no surprise it was to be abandoned by the Parks Board as being uneconomic. All I can do is suggest that this camp site be visited more often as it is in an excellent birding area.

Sunday 23^rd November 1997

It was raining, so I left at 08h00 driving north through Kariba to Kafue town, arriving at 15h00. I camped overnight near Pete Leonard's house at Lechwe Lodge. Pete was able to give me invaluable information on the best birding areas in Zambia, and what I was likely to see - he is in the final stages of compiling the data (with Carl Beel) for the first Zambian Bird Atlas. Any records from Zambia from whatever date should please be sent to him. Anyone planning a serious trip to Zambia should contact him, and if he has the time, will lead expeditions, etc to the good areas. The success of my trip is almost entirely due to the excellent information given to me, much of it included in the remainder of this report.

Monday 24^th November 1997

Assisted Pete with some ringing, leaving at 09h00. I then continued north to Ndola/Kitwe. Pete had directed me to the only Zambian endemic, Chaplin's Barbet (Lybius chaplini). Driving approx 45 kilometres north of Lusaka (measured from the Independence arch), there is a sign-posted turn to the right to Chisamba. After about 7 kilometres, an area of open parkland with large fig trees is reached. This is the favoured habitat of the barbet. I had to drive a further 5 kilometres before I found them. Also seen were Black-collared Barbet (Lybius torquatus), Crested Barbet (Trachyphonus vaillantii) and the (northern) Grey-headed Sparrow (Passer griseus) which does not occur south of the Zambezi. Continued on to Kitwe to stay with a friend who was working on the Copper Mines there.

Tuesday 25^th November 1997

I left Kitwe at 11h00, driving west towards Chingola. I stopped off at the COSETCO school to see Carl Beel, who added considerably to the information I had already received. Leaving there at about 14h00, I continued through Chingola towards Solwezi. 40 kilometres beyond Chingola, I turned right at the Coca-Cola sign to the Chimfunchi Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Centre. After approx 2 kilometres, there is a signpost to the left towards the centre, which is another 16 kilometres down a reasonable dirt road. The camp site is clearly sign-posted.

Wednesday 26^th November 1997

I spent the day exploring the mature miombo woodland on the road into the Centre.

Thursday 27^th November 1997

I left at 07h00 and returned to the main road towards Solwezi. 30 kilometres past Solwezi is the Mutanda bridge. This is now the most accessible site for the Red-throated Cliff Swallow (Hirundo rufigula) - previously they could be found at every bridge. I was lucky enough to see one pair there.

Carl Beel warned me that Angolan Swallow (Hirundo angolensis) are now very rare even in this area, but it is still worth looking out - because if they are rare here, you're chance of seeing one in the Caprivi have to be minuscule! Not surprisingly, I didn't see any.

I then continued west to Mwinilunga, arriving at approx 14h00. In Mwinilunga, the tar continues to the north for a short distance. The road then continues north for a further 70 kilometres to Ikelenge, and another 30 kilometres to the Angolan border. This is currently the main road for smuggling in cobalt from the Democratic Republic of Congo (ex-Zaire) and diamonds from Angola. I was warned to expect plenty of police road-blocks and a real distrust of the intention of a South African travelling in the area. Having said that, I experienced no problem at any road block.

The road from Mwinilunga to Ikelenge is very poor, being a compacted sand track, which is rough and pot-holed, but easy to drive on even when wet - although the puddles look intimidating in the rain. The road starts off through an extensive miombo reserve (now de-proclaimed), before crossing the Chitunta river, and then continues through more miombo until, after approx 60 kilometres, a sign to the right points to Hillwood farm. The farm road is just as good as the main road, and after 7 kilometres you will reach the church (the area being a Christian missionary stronghold). Expect the trip from Mwinilunga to take 1½ to 2 hours. From the church, turn right to the farm office and ask for Pete Fisher.

Friday 28^th November 1997

I walked around Hillwood Farm.

Saturday 29^th November 1997

I drove back to Chitunta Plain which is reached approx 30 kilometres south on the road back to Mwinilunga - identified as a narrow plain, and the only one with 2 wooden bridges 50 metres apart. The confluence where the Bocage's Weaver's can be found can be reached by walking on the near bank to the right (when driving from Hillwood) along the river edge. There are no clear tracks, but it is relatively easy going (or maybe I was lucky that it had been burnt a few months previously). I failed to find either the weaver or Grimwood's Longclaw, which is supposedly very common right at the bridges.

Sunday 30^th November 1997

I drove to the Zambezi Rapids, 20 kilometres to the north of Ikelenge. A guide is essential! Once there I was lucky enough to find a single Forbes' Plover - it looks like most had already left on their migration northwards.

Monday 1^st December 1997

I spent the whole day walking around Hillwood Farm.

Tuesday 2^nd December 1997

I drove to the Source of the Zambezi, which is approximately 15 kilometres south of Hillwood on the Mwinilunga road. A large sign on the left (from the north) indicates the road to the source. You must sign a book at the barrier, and then drive along an excellent track for 5 kilometres to the source. Be aware that the road follows the border with the DRC (the DRC being on the right). It is possible to camp there, but there are no facilities - and the birds are the same as can be found at Hillwood.

Wednesday 3^rd December 1997

I drove back to Chimfunchi, where I camped

Thursday 4^th December 1997

I walked around the unfenced Chimp reserve at Chimfunchi.

Friday 5^th December 1997

I then drove back to Makuti in northern Zimbabwe.

Saturday 6^th December 1997

In the morning I discovered that the front of my left leg was completely covered in blisters. I still don't know what caused it, but it looked very nasty. Anyway, I continued south, reaching Johannesburg, arriving at about 02h00 on Sunday.