Great Lakes

16 June 2001 - 20 July 2001

Journal

Saturday 16^th June 2001

I left Johannesburg at around 02h30.

I then passed through the Beit Bridge border post to reach the Orange Grove Motel campsite by around 16h00.

Sunday 17^th June 2001

I left at sunrise, and drove to Lusaka, and then towards Mpika, and continuing north-east, reaching the Kapishya Springs camp-site at Shiwa Ng'andu exactly at sunset - good timing!. The tarred road was in excellent condition the whole way - the gravel road to Kapishya was also OK.

Monday 18^th June 2001

Again I left at sunrise, travelling west to the main road to Mbala. This road had occasional potholes, but was generally a sound tar road. The road from Mbala to the Tanzanian border could best be described as a track, and I noted that I was the first "foreigner" to cross the border in June - perhaps this isn't a major international border-post.

The road continued in a poor state for some distance. This allowed me to stop at each bridge to check out the area for Tanganyika Masked Weaver. After about five stops I was successful, with several to be found around some trees overhanging an almost dry river. Other notable birds found along the way were Purple-crested Turaco, Bare-faced Loerie, Grey-rumped Swallow, Angola Babbler and Cape Canary (S. f. sassii). On reaching Sumbawanga, the road changed to an excellent condition, the result of a recent improvement project making the remainder of the day's driving a joy - as good a gravel road as one might find. Result - I reached the Katavi NP camp site at sunset.

Tuesday 19^th June 2001

Due to a small miscalculation, I found out that the campsite was so-called "inside" the park. It took a bit of discussion, and the warden acknowledged that their signs were misleading, so I ended up paying $10 for the camping, and was let off the usual park entrance. However, don't rely on this in future - best to drive another few hundred metres and leave the park before camping. Anyway, after that I quickly reached Mpanda on the continuing good gravel road.

Thereafter, the road deteriorated somewhat - to the level where I was worried about grounding the Landrover. The next 280 kilometres were a real test - but this was a small price to pay for saving about 2 additional days and 2 000 kilometres (the alternative route was via Arusha, Nairobi and Kampala). Given the driving conditions, few birds of note were seen - the exceptions being a pair of Souza's Shrikes and a Scaly Francolin with 2-3 day old chicks.

On reaching Kasulu, the road improved, since it had been upgraded in order for the UN to service the refugee camps. My pre-determined goal of reaching Kibondo was achieved - at sunset. Is this real? Since there was no campsite, I camped at the only local hotel - the Kibondo Guest House.

Wednesday 20^th June 2001

Yet again, a sunrise start. The road to Lusahanga was in places excellent (where upgraded) or otherwise undergoing the process of rehabilitation. However, once the tarred road was reached, not a pot-hole to be seen. Occasional stops eventually produced the goal - a Red-faced Barbet.

By mid-morning I reached the Rwandan border, which caused hardly a delay, before continuing along an excellent tarred road to Kigali, where I had to turn south to Butare. From Butare, the tarred road west to the Nyungwe Forest was generally excellent, but with occasional potholes. I continued with hardly a break to reach the campsite by 15h00 - having noted the potential birding spots along the way - but without checking them out in detail.

I considered this an incredibly successful drive, since if I had driven north from Kigali, I would no doubt have been able to reach Bwindi / Impenetrable Forest in Uganda by sunset - not bad for a 5-day drive from Johannesburg (4 000 kilometres). While the road might not have been perfect all the way, this has to be considered as a potential route for anyone wanting to bird Rwanda or Uganda from South Africa - indeed, if Burundi had been viable, one probably could have made Uganda by mid-day on the fifth day.

Thursday 21^st June 2001

Here I made my first mistake - not understanding French! As the "piste rouge" was recommended as the best birding trail, I decided to try it out. However, this is a serious trail - only 9 kilometres long, but it involved dropping from about 2 600 metres to around 1 800, and then climbing back up. As a trail it was fine for walking, but not too good for birding. Nevertheless, I had not allowed for altitude acclimatization, nor the fact that due a an ongoing illness, I had not worn shoes - let alone boots - for the previous 3 months. Result - I ripped of the toe-nail on my big toe - and saw few birds.

What I had seen on the walk was very limited - Purple-breasted Sunbird being the major highlight - although seeing glimpses of the troupe of Colobus monkeys - 300 strong! - was not to be forgotten. Chimpanzees were heard frequently - but always too far away to actually see.

To compound my initial error, I had not re-organized my papers / documents in the Landrover (having crossed 4 borders in the previous 4 days), and so had accidentally left my travellers' cheques in a visible place that evening.

Friday 22^nd June 2001

The following morning, they were gone. On reporting this to the park warden, I was amazed at the reaction. This was the first time that such an event had occurred, and so it was it was taken very seriously. By the next day, three suspects had been arrested, and taken to the "local" police station at Cyangugu, on the DRC border - 50 kilometres away.

Since I now needed to wait for Ian Munanura (the project leader for the Wildlife Society's work in the forest) to help sort out the formalities of the incident - I was left with a few more days in the forest to bird-watch properly. This was undoubtedly good luck. Although I achieved little birding on Friday, the next few days were to turn out to be highly successful.

Saturday 23^rd June 2001

I spent the morning walking along the tarred road outside the campsite, and that evening drove down to the rest house at the western end of the forest (altitude around 1800 m).

Birds seen from the tarred road around the camp-site were Handsome Francolin, Grey Parrot, Great Blue Turaco, Rwenzori Turaco, Madagascar Lesser Cuckoo, Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, White-headed Wood-hoopoe, Black-and-white Casqued Hornbill, Dwarf Honeyguide, Mountain Greenbul, Archer's Robin-chat, Red-throated Alethe, Grauer's Warbler (played the tape once, and three birds started calling), Black-faced Rufous Warbler, Grauer's Swamp Warbler, Banded Prinia, Mountain Masked Apalis, Black-throated Apalis, Buff-throated Apalis (A. r. nigrescens and A. r. argentea - Kungwe Apalis), Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher, Rwenzori Batis, Mountain Illadopsis, Grey-chested Illadopsis, Red-collared Babbler, Rwenzori Double-collared Sunbird, Regal Sunbird (abundant in the flowers along the road verge) Lühder's Bush-shrike, Montane Oriole, Slender-billed Chestnut-winged Starling, Baglafecht Weaver, Strange Weaver & Thick-billed Seed-eater.

Sunday 24^th June 2001

I spent the morning walking a short distance along the waterfall trail (my foot wouldn't allow a more adventurous expedition), and then the rest of the day was spent in the adjoining (lower level) of the forest.

The birds found in these areas included Cassin's Hawk-Eagle, Shelley's Greenbul, White-bellied Robin-chat, Mountain Yellow Warbler, White-chinned Prinia, Red-faced Woodland Warbler, Violet-backed Hyliota, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Stripe-breasted Tit, Mackinnon's Shrike, Black-billed Weaver, and Grey-crowned Negrofinch.

White-browed Crombec, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Green-headed Sunbird, Black-crowned Waxbill were all found in the grounds of the rest house.

Monday 25^th June 2001

I started the morning with an early morning bird-watch.

Then I went with Ian down to Cyangugu to make a statement to the local police, who were most co-operative in the issue. After that I looked out longingly across the southern end of Lake Kivu - the DRC border was within 100 metres, and I knew that nothing was really stopping me from driving across and going into the Kahuzi-Biega reserve just 50 kilometres beyond - where the Congo Peacock and many other amazing specials were to be found. However, sanity (what was left of it) stopped me. While in Cyangugu, I logged into the internet from the local hotel, and cancelled all the stolen traveller's cheques from my South African bank's web-site.

Leaving Cyangugu at around 11h00, I returned to Kigali, before heading north on another pothole-free road to Kabale in Uganda.

From the White Horse Hotel in Kabale I phoned Herbert Byaruhanga to check whether Alfred Twinomujuni was still available. After he confirmed he was, I broke one of my rules of driving in Africa - and left Kabale just before sunset to set out for Bwindi - a three hour drive in daylight - but four in the dark. However, it was not without reward as I saw both Rwenzori and Black-shouldered Nightjars on the way.

Tuesday 26^th June 2001

Somehow it had completely slipped my mind that this was election day in Uganda. The only people staying at the Buhoma campsite were a group of 4 Europeans who were staying there to monitor the elections. Alfred spent the morning queuing up to vote, and we spent the afternoon talking and planning the trip. My original intention was to start at Bwindi, and then work my way northwards up the western side of Uganda before crossing over the north and then down to Kampala. However, the loss of my traveller's cheques meant I needed to get to Kampala to access some more money, so I decided to reverse the whole trip - and end up at Bwindi.

I spent the day doing some quiet birding along the main track at the edge of Bwindi, and found a variety of species including Grey Parrot, Black Bee-eater, Western Green Tinkerbird, Red-shouldered Cuckoo-Shrike, Green Sunbird, Mackinnon's Shrike, Bocage's Bush-Shrike (feeding young), Compact Weaver and Pied Manikins breeding in the campsite. Note that the bird list refers to both visits to the site

Wednesday 27^th June 2001

We left early in order to reach Kampala before 15h00 when the banks closed - and made it by 14h00. Rather than wait a couple of days to collect new traveller's cheques, I used my credit card to draw sufficient funds for the remainder of the trip (getting a mixture of US dollars and Shillings was very easy)

By 17h00 we reached Mabira, to be greeted by a very friendly Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat. We did no birding, but planned for an early start for the next day.

Thursday 28^th June 2001

The whole day was spent birding at Mabira, and Alfred proved his incredible expertise in forest birding - being able to call up almost any bird by imitating its call - and where he couldn't manage that, he had his Mini-disc recorder.

Birds seen included Ayres' Hawk-Eagle, Nahan's Francolin, White-spotted Flufftail, Afep Pigeon, Black-billed Turaco, Narina's Trogon, Blue-throated Roller, Grey-throated, Speckled, Yellow-throated and Hairy-breasted Barbets, Yellow-throated Tinkerbird, Buff-spotted and Brown-eared Woodpeckers, Purple-throated Cuckoo-Shrike, Little Grey and Red-tailed Greenbuls, Green-tailed Bristlebill, Forest Robin, Fire-crested Alethe, Rufous Flycatcher-Thrush, Grey-throated Tit-Flycatcher, Shrike-Flycatcher, Scaly-breasted Illadopsis, Blue-throated Brown Sunbird, Western Nicator, Forest Chestnut-winged Starling, Red-headed Malimbe, and White-breasted Negrofinch.

Many of the most retiring species were seen close-up when we came across an ant-swarm that had attracted lots of the ground and low-strata species.

Friday 29^th June 2001

Since I was going to have to pass back through Mabira on my return, we decided to continue on towards Moroto, but first spent the morning at the pond at the eastern edge of the forest. This was most rewarding as we found Shining-blue Kingfisher there - although I got even better sightings on my second visit. Note that the bird list refers to both visits to the site

From there we continued east and north to Soroti - on excellent tar the whole way. On the way we stopped at a couple of places and found Bare-faced Go-away-bird, White-winged Swamp-Warbler and Papyrus Gonolek.

We followed the directions in the Birding Uganda book to find the Fox's Weaver, which were outnumbered by Yellow-backed Weavers. It should also be possible to find Shoebill there, but we decided not to search for that - I am sure others would have a different opinion.

From here we continued slowly to Moroto, as we had now entered a drier environment to which Alfred had never before travelled - he had never even seen the Fox's Weaver before - Uganda's only endemic. This stretch brought me few lifers, but he must have seen over fifty that afternoon. As the day went on we started seeing quite a large number of Common and Harlequin Quail, and even a couple of Blue Quail in the damper areas. Although the road was murram, it was generally in very good condition.

Saturday 30^th June 2001

We left Moroto early in the morning as we were not sure of the state of roads to Kidepo. In fact it was quite good, although in a couple of places it had been washed out, and one just needed to drive slowly across those patches (never more than 10 metres wide). One memorable sighting was of Pin-tailed, Straw-tailed and Steel-blue Whydahs all sitting in a single bush, with a Paradise Whydah in an adjoining bush. As we drew nearer to Kidepo the number of Quail increased, and whilst in the park it was common to put up pairs every 20 metres while driving through grassland - suggesting that Kidepo must be one of the most significant wintering areas for this species.

We reached the camp at Kidepo in the just after 12h00, and so decided to set straight in the afternoon to try and find the Black-breasted Barbet. The best spot for this was at the ranger camp in the extreme north overlooking Sudan. On the way we drove through a small swampy area and put up around 10 African Crakes from the track, as well as Black Coucal and Clapperton's Francolin. We spent about an hour-and-half at the ranger camp but failed to find the Barbet. In compensation we found Bruce's Green-Pigeon, White-bellied Go-away-bird, Abyssinian Roller and White-bellied Tit.

The campsite itself had large numbers of resident Yellow-billed Shrikes, as well as many Angola Swallows and should have been an excellent spot for Four-banded Sandgrouse. However, since we were still in the rainy season, there was plenty of water around and so they did not frequent the camp's waterhole. Indeed the vegetation in Kidepo was not what I was expecting. All around it was relatively arid, but in the park, the grass was quite lush and very high - often over 2 metres. Nevertheless, there were still plenty of arid specials.

Sunday 1^st July 2001

We spent the whole day in the park, exploring various areas, and - of course - trying for the Karamoja Apalis - but without success. The major compensation was finding Little Green Bee-eater in the morning, and then returning to the Barbet site in the afternoon - and being lucky this time.

Overall, Kidepo was a bit of a disappointment - but I think that this was entirely due to timing - outside of the rains, I suspect birding would have been much easier and more rewarding. Nevertheless, a worthwhile trip - and the only place we visited in Uganda that I had not previously visited.

Monday 2^nd July 2001

We left Kidepo early, and started out for Murchison Falls NP. Again, we had no idea as to the state of roads, and the security situation, but in the end it proved to be very easy, with good murram roads the whole way. There was one stretch of 20 kilometres where they wanted us to take an armed guard, but there seemed to be no real reason for this. We reached Masindi in the late afternoon, and decided to go north to the Kaniyo Pabidi - which is part of the Budongo Forest (even though Alfred knew of another site nearby for Puvel's Illadopsis). We arrived there at dusk.

Tuesday 3^rd July 2001

First thing in the morning we tracked down the Illadopsis with no difficulty. Note that the bird list refers to both visits to the site

After this we continued northwards to see what Murchison might provide, but found that the conditions were far from ideal - the Tsetse fly (to the south of the Nile, anyway) made birding impossible - I have never experienced them so bad - certainly my previous visit in September was nothing like this. Since there were few target species for the park anyway, we decided to go to the falls - again the Tsetse made life unbearable - and then across to Paraa, which I hardly recognized form my previous visit 6 years before. However, while looking out towards the Nile (the Tsetse weren't so bad here) we were amazed to find a Gambaga Flycatcher.

We continued on to the Nile Safari Camp as this was supposedly a good site for the Red-winged Grey Warbler. Over a relaxed lunch there (excellent food) we were chatting with the owner, who commented how so many people visited there to watch Shoebill, but how they were only visible in the morning and evening, and that they soared up into the thermals at mid-day. Alfred was a bit surprised at this, and so looked out over the papyrus reed-beds and pointed out one Shoebill standing right at the waters edge. No further comment form the owner! At about 15h30 we decided to walk along their bird trail, and within 200m found a flock of the Red-winged Grey Warblers - and another Gambaga Flycatcher. Again, we carefully checked our identification, but there seemed to be no possible alternative.

Leaving at about 16h30 we drove south and then east up the escarpment to reach the Busingiro campsite by dusk. Most of the road was good, but the section from the lake to the escarpment had several bad patches. On the way up the escarpment we checked out every glossy starling until we eventually found a Bronze-tailed Starling.

Wednesday 4^th July 2001

In the morning we set off for the Royal Mile, where we stayed for virtually the whole day. As was expected, this produced spectacular forest birding, providing the following notable species (amongst many others): Nahan's Francolin, Narina Trogon, Sabine's Spinetail, Chocolate-backed, Blue-breasted & African Dwarf Kingfishers, Blue-throated Roller, Brown-eared & Yellow-crested Woodpeckers, Little, Little Grey, Spotted, Icterine & Xavier's Greenbuls, Forest Robin (brilliantly imitating Yellow-bellied Crombec, much to our confusion), Rufous Flycatcher-Thrush, Black-capped Apalis, Yellow & Grey Longbills, Rufous-crowned Eremomela, Lemon-bellied Crombec, Semi-collared & Chestnut-capped Flycatchers, Shrike-Flycatcher, Chestnut Wattle-eye, Dusky Tit, Little Green Sunbird, Western Nicator, Purple-headed Glossy-Starling and Red-headed Malimbe.

The issue of the Forest Robin imitating a Lemon-bellied Crombec did cause us some problems, not least trying to understand what conceivable benefit it could obtain from such mimicry. Clearly its imitation of a Crowned Eagle is highly beneficial since it scares away all its rivals at food sources, but the Crombec? Maybe it is just to annoy birders, because when you have 3 Lemon-bellied Crombecs calling, two of which are Forest Robins, frustration quickly builds!

Late in the afternoon, we walked off into the adjacent farmland to find Brown Twinspot - which after a long search, we finally did. Its favoured habitat is rapidly been lost here, and so one of the easiest sites to see this species may soon be lost. We also found Whistling Cisticola - a species I had failed to identify previously.

Thursday 5^th July 2001

In the morning we birded the forest around the campsite and soon found Ituri Batis, but failed to find either Cassin's Spinetail (Neafrapus cassini) or Rufous-sided Broadbill (Smithornis rufolateralis).

At around 11h00 we left, and headed south to Fort Portal. On the way had some real excitement when the steering failed, but luckily I was able to slow on the murram road without crashing. The universal joint on the steering had stripped all the splines, but by tightening it up as tight as possible I was able to go very slowly the last few kilometres to Fort Portal, where a good second-hand one was bought for about US$ 5.

From there we took the road down to Semuliki National Park - which I remembered as one of the worst roads I had ever driven on, but due to the war, had been upgraded into a very reasonable murram road. On arrival at the entrance "gate" we found the building completely deserted, with rather too many bullet holes in the walls for my liking. So we then continued on to the Head Quarters about 5 kilometres further on. However, on the way, a couple of trucks had got stuck when they pulled off the road to pass each other, and managed to completely block the road. While waiting, I started chatting with another person also waiting - to discover that it was Andy Plumptre, on of the contacts who had helped me plan the trip in the first place. He was on his way to start a survey for the Wildlife Society of the park, trying to determine what changes had occurred as a result of the war.

At the HQ we found the rangers, guides and army personnel - and very heavy rain. We then made plans for the next two days, which involved walking the Hot Spring trail on the first morning, and then spending the rest of the day birding along the main road, and to take the Kirumia Trail the next day - subject to the army approving the latter, since this was not open to the public (but then neither was the park), and it was still one of the army's primary patrol routes.

We were not allowed to camp or stay in the village near the park head-quarters, and were required to stay at one of the hotels in Bundibugyo. This was because the army were still not prepared to allow "foreigners" to be at risk in the area - even though the last attack in the area was 6 months before. Andy and his team also had to stay at the hotel for the first two nights, although by the time we had left, he had negotiated permission to stay at the local village around the HQ.

Friday 6^th July 2001

Since it was a 45 minute drive from Bundibugyo to the HQ, and there was still a lot of preparations to make (visits by tourists were not yet permitted officially), we didn't reach the Springs until about 9h30.

This meant we were far to late to hope to track down species such as the Nkulengu Rail and other nocturnal species. Also, our party comprised of one guide, (local, not Alfred), two rangers, and 4 soldiers. While all were most co-operative, they would not allow fewer than two soldiers and their guide to precede us - but we did persuade the two guards to move about 100 metres further ahead, so we had some chance of finding the more retiring species.

Nevertheless, we were able to find White-spotted Flufftail, Yellowbill, Black-casqued Wattled Hornbill, Yellow-throated Tinkerbird, Least Honeyguide and - to our amazement, an Osprey hunting over the springs. Since their temperature is approximately 103°c, I hope it didn't ever try to catch anything! We spend some time trying to establish if the board-walk still existed - none of the rangers had been out that way for several years. After some careful and tentative experimenting, we did indeed find it - if somewhat dilapidated - and managed to reach the second spring without scalding ourselves.

During the afternoon, we wandered along the road between the springs and the HQ, and managed to see White-crested, Red-billed Dwarf & Piping Hornbills, as well as plenty of Pied Manikins which were nesting around the HQ - but again an afternoon rainstorm curtailed the birding. We were advised to leave for Bundibugyo at 16h00, which seemed much too early for me.

Saturday 7^th July 2001

We made an early start, leaving Bundibugyo at dawn, and arriving at the HQ by 07h00. However, it required another hour before the guides (2) and rangers (2) were ready and had confirmed with the Army that we were permitted to use the trail. Then we drove to the village at the start of the trail. It then took another hour to round up the necessary Army personnel, which was a total of 10. So once we set off, there were a total of 16 of us. Not perhaps the ideal size for a bird-watching trip, but there was obviously nothing we could do about it.

We started off along the trail, which had been cleared the previous year to a width of nearly 5 metres - but had since overgrown, so that the real trail only allowed for single-file walking. The first two kilometres was along a reasonable path, and dry - but little was seen at this stage. The next kilometre was a fairly muddy, but it was still possible to keep fairly dry. However, the next kilometre - the last before the crossing of the Kirumia River - was distinctly wet - and some tried to keep dry, while the rest of us (including me) decided to simply follow the path, and accept that we needed to wade through 1 foot deep water.

The river crossing involved crossing a small wooden bridge (i.e. 3 logs, with no had-rails of course). Beyond this, the trail became regularly flooded, and the next four kilometres involved more wading through water than dry stretches (probably 5 times as much wet than dry). I suspect that Jonathan Rossouw's book was written in the dry season!

However, it was this last four kilometres was the rewarding part. Species encountered included (Latham's) Forest Francolin, Black-throated Coucal, Honeyguide, Swamp Palm & Xavier's Greenbul, Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat (showing itself spectacularly), Red-tailed Ant-Thrush, Rufous Flycatcher-Thrush, Green Crombec, Green Hylia, Blue-headed Crested-Flycatcher, Fraser's Sunbird, Yellow-footed Flycatcher (there appears to be no other record for this species in Uganda, outside of Budongo Forest), Vieillot's Black Weaver, Crested Malimbe and Grant's Blue-bill. Not bad for a 6 hour walk!

On our return, we found the local army commander and chief ranger playing cards. On seeing our pleasure at the results of this expedition, they both agreed to revise their previous opinion that tourists were not welcome, and agreed that perhaps future tourists would be allowed to visit the areas we visited. However, we did point out that perhaps the current fee of US$ 3 for each day's walk was not going to make them any profit. I suspect future tourist swill be charged the top Ugandan day walk rate (excluding gorillas) of US$ 10.

Since we had got back at around 15h00, we decided not to return to Bundibugyo, but rather to move on to Kibale - which we reached by 17h00, and tried to see what swifts and spinetails were around. Alfred was convinced that Cassin's Spinetails were easy to see here - but I found no documentary evidence of this - nor saw any spinetails either! However, we did find White-naped Pigeon, Scarce Swift and Masked Apalis (common around the HQ building).

Sunday 8^th July 2001

An early start was required to track down the target species for the day - Green-breasted Pitta. While we found it, there was a heavy price to pay. We say virtually no other species, and my feet started to become seriously painful - partly due to the lost toe-nail (from Rwanda) and my ongoing problems with my knees. Walking uphill was OK, but downhill was very painful - and while Kibale was hilly, it was nothing like the Impenetrable Forest, so I was getting a bit worried about birding there.

Given the success of the birding so far on the trip, there seemed little point in spending more time at Kibale, so we decided to go on to Buhoma, and wrap up the trip there - virtually everything left to see could be found there anyway. The drive south to Queen Elizabeth NP was on excellent tar, but the road through Queen Elizabeth towards the DRC border was very badly rutted due to overloaded trucks tackling the road in the rains. Along this road we found Black-lored Babbler.

Monday 9^th July 2001

An early start found us walking along the main forest track, where we spent the whole day. This is where Alfred is at his best, knowing every sound, and where to find each species. Highlights included Western Bronze-naped Pigeon, Dusky, Olive and Barred Long-tailed Cuckoos, Bar-tailed Trogon, Red-chested Owlet, Black Bee-eater, Blue-throated Roller, White-headed Wood-hoopoe, Western Green & Yellow-throated Tinkerbirds, Thick-billed Honeyguide, African Broadbill, Red-shouldered & Petit's Cuckoo-Shrikes, a variety of Greenbuls, White-tailed Ant-Thrush, Neumann's Warbler, Rwenzori, Black-throated, Chestnut-throated & Buff-throated Apalises, Grauer's Warbler, White-browed Crombec, Red-faced Woodland Warbler, Chapin's & Sooty Flycatchers, White-bellied Crested Flycatcher, Grey-chested Illadopsis, Stripe-breasted Tit, Green, Fraser's, Green-headed, Blue-throated Brown, Blue-headed & other Sunbirds, Mackinnon's Shrike, Many-coloured, Bocage's & Doherty's Bush-Shrikes, Pink-footed Puffback, Western Black-headed Oriole, White-breasted Negrofinch and Oriole Finch - and many more!

In the late afternoon we went looking for the White-collared Olive-back, but it was not to be found in its usual haunt.

Tuesday 10^th July 2001

The next morning we went to a few other sites to try and track down the Olive-back, but all those sites had been destroyed by encroaching agriculture. Alfred was most distressed that he couldn't find a special for his patch.

We then followed the road up towards Ruhija, stopping in several places to try and find Dusky Twinspot, which obliged in the end. Mountain Buzzard and Handsome Francolin were also seen along the way. We also passed the Neck, where we found Northern Double-collared & Tiny Sunbirds and Montane Oriole, but failed to find the Tit-Hylia which occurs in this area.

On arrival at the Ruhija camp, at about 15h00, we decided to walk along the road birding. Having found Mountain Sooty Boubou, the new chief ranger passed us in his vehicle and severely reprimanded us for bird-watching!. One of the other rangers explained that this seems to be a regular problem nowadays, but that all he really meant is you are not allowed to watch birds even from the road without a local guide. No-one is quite sure why this should be so.

Wednesday 11^th July 2001

Another early start so we could descend down the shorter trail to look for the Green-(Grauer's) Broadbill, which was reportedly nesting at the time. There was little problem finding it, as both birds were collecting nesting material at the time. Other birds seen on the route included Red-chested Owlet, Elliot's Woodpecker, White-starred Robin, White-bellied Robin-chat, Grauer's Swamp-Warbler (heard), Mountain Yellow Warbler, Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher, Purple-breasted & Regal Sunbirds, and Dusky Twinspot.

Having returned to the camp by 11h00, we decided to try and find two species we had so far missed, and which required driving to yet another part of the forest. Shelley's Crimsonwing was found quite easily - just a few seconds after sighting the Dusky Crimsonwing, allowing an excellent chance to compare the two. However, try as we might, there was no sign of the Kivu Ground-Thrush (its status as a full species still seems to be under discussion) - they are very hard to find unless calling, and this was not the season for them. Note that the bird list refers to both visits to the site

In the late afternoon we left for Kabale, where I dropped of Alfred, and I camped at the White Horse Inn, where a hot shower was most welcome.

Thursday 12^th July 2001

Leaving Kabale early, I reached Mpanga Forest by around 11h00, and wasted no time in finding Weyns's Weaver - it was the first bird I saw in the forest.

From here I continued to Entebbe, where I spend a couple of hours in the botanical gardens searching for the Orange-tufted Sunbird.

From there it was on to Mabira, to try and pick up the few species we missed on the first day. In late evening I spent an hour or so near the pond, and while I found Forest Wood-hoopoe, there was no sign of the Tit-hylia.

Friday 13^th July 2001

Started the morning at the pond again (this is quite a reliable site for the Tit-hylia) - but again failed. Note that the bird list refers to both visits to the site

Leaving at around 11h00, I set off for Kenya. The road was poor at first, until we reached the road-works - thereafter it was excellent. The border at Malaba has to be one of the worst laid out I have ever encountered, but no more hassle than any other - within half an hour I was through. From there the road was good through to Kakamega forest (although the last stretch was potholed.

The Kenya Wildlife Service seems to have taken over the management of the forest. They have a campsite with very basic rondavels, and a few guides. However, on my previous visit in 1995, there was a double-storey rest-house (again basic) run by the forestry department. I suspect this still exists, but I couldn’t find it. It certainly seemed to be in a better bit of the forest as far as birding goes.

That evening I arranged to go birding with Patrick, one of the better guides there, leaving at 07h00.

Saturday 14^th July 2001

At about 08h00, Patrick sent a ranger to tell me he decided to take another group, not me. The ranger had no idea about birds, or where the best trails were. I tried exploring the forest by myself, but was not able to find any well-developed forest. Having seen virtually nothing by 11h00, I gave up, and decided to head east to the coast, which was my next target anyway - Kakamega was just a spot I intended to stay the night for and do a quick bit of birding in the morning.

The road through to Nairobi and on south-east was in reasonable condition, and I reached the northern end of the park at around 16h30. However, you are no longer allowed to enter unless you have a smart-card - and these can only be obtained at Voi. On arrival at Voi, the office had closed, so they couldn't issue a card. However, after keeping me waiting for an hour, they finally allowed me to enter to camp nearby. While the wait was a bit annoying, it allowed me to find Hildebrandt's Francolin (a species I have missed for many years). The drive to the campsite also yielded Donaldson-Smith's Nightjar.

Sunday 15^th July 2001

In the morning I had to return to the entrance gate to get my card, and then drove towards the Malindi gate. This section provided a range of the dry bush species I had previously missed, and included Vulturine Guineafowl, Black-faced Sandgrouse, Chestnut-headed Sparrow-Lark, Black-headed Batis, Scaly Chatterer and Tsavo Purple-banded Sunbird.

I then continued to Malindi, where I had a late lunch at one of the better hotels, and reached Sokoke in the late afternoon - but still with time to meet up with Alex Mwinga, one of the guides there. We arranged to spend the next day birding, and perhaps continue for a second day. I briefly drove down to the swamp area and was lucky enough to find a Madagascar Squacco Heron there. Later, just around dusk I heard a Fischer's Turaco near the campsite - but failed to see it.

Monday 16^th July 2001

In the morning we drove out to reach the Brachystegia forest, where we found a flock of Clarke's Weaver as well as Mombasa Woodpecker, Sokoke Pipit, Green-headed Oriole and Plain-backed Sunbird - amongst others.

Later in the morning we drove up to Malindi, where we found Malindi Pipit next to some Richard's Pipits - and they are very difficult to tell apart, especially if seen separately. Then we continued up to the Sabaki mouth, where a single Madagascar Pratincole was found, along with Roseate Tern and Zanzibar Red Bishop.

Later in the afternoon we returned to Sokoke to search for the Sokoke Scops Owl, which Alex found - although how is a complete mystery to me! It was well camouflaged hiding in a thicket some 50 metres off the track. A pair of Gorgeous Bush-Shrikes were also seen building a nest.

Tuesday 17^th July 2001

In the morning we went in search of the Scaly Babbler, my last target species for the area. After an hour we failed to find any sign of it, and then it started raining - which Alex said was likely to continue for the rest of the day. After a brief reflection on timing, etc, I decided that the trip had been a great success, and ending it on a possibly fruitless chase for one bird was not worth it.

So I headed south, where the road was generally good, but with some bad patches through to Mombasa and crossed the ferry. Afterwards drove on south to the border at Lunga Lunga and then on to Tanga on a reasonable but muddy road. The drive on to Riverside camp was easy, and I reached there at dusk. My timing was still on track!

Wednesday 18^th July 2001

Left at dawn, and reached Sweetwaters (about 50 kilometres short of Forest Inn) at dusk. Not such a great place to camp - I should have continued on to the Forest Inn.

Thursday 19^th July 2001

Leaving at dawn, I was able to reach Masvingo by dusk, and camped at the Great Ruins, next to the Hotel there.

Friday 20^th July 2001

Again, leaving at dawn, I reached Johannesburg at about 15h00.